Sunday, August 27, 2017

Jours de chat de l'été...

Forgive me father.... oh, not really a confession, but I am sorry that I haven't been posting my blog lately. It just seems we are busy, but never seem to do anything. I have written bits and pieces, so now with less than a week to go for my summer, I will attempt to put them together in a coherent, entertaining prose.

vert provence
Back deck in prgress
I have been coming to terms with having only one week left here in France. I know I am very lucky to spend 9 weeks here each summer, but it is now time to gear down and savour the last few days. From our original to do list we still only have the back deck to finish. This was really only going to be a planning year, and find a contractor, but it has gone ahead. We have just heard from our contractor again and there are further delays as we wait for the wood and the deck will be done maybe on Wednesday? During construction, the chairs and table are all over the back yard, and we have to search for the little shade as the framed in deck sits in the shadiest part of the yard, but as the weather goes, we are seeking out any sun we can get... due to a unseasonably cool and cloudy early August. With the delay in the deck,  Steve has taken on painting a wall in the kitchen, as well as getting ready to paint the front window shutters, and our barn door, which we close up when we lock up the house each fall. We hope the touch of "vert provence" will enhance the "quartier".

Lac St. Pardoux
La Plage
We did rent the 'only car in the village' twice over the past few weeks and this gave us a chance to stock up on some of the heavy supplies. If you are planning a late summer visit, we have plenty of beer, wine, sparkling wine, sangria and sparkling water, but the way we are going through them, I can't judge how long the supply might last.  We have spent a couple of days at Lac de Pardoux. The large lake nestled in a forest is about 30 minutes away. It has several beaches, camp sites, sailing, water skiing along with a pool and waterslides. Our destination was one of the sandy beaches. Armed with our beach mats, towels and lunch, we were off.  The water was great, and the crowds were very manageable. After soaking up a bit of the bright sunshine, we retreated to the shade of the trees. Heading down for a quick dip every now and then was a great relief to the sunny days which have been in short supply this year. According to the locals, this has been one of the "worst" summers in a long time. On a different note, just a few days ago, our French friend, Laure, told us about the local uranium mining and how the lake bottom was contaminated and only tourists will swim there. Doing some research, it seems to be under control and all levels are within the "healthy" limits. There will be another test in the fall, so we will check back into it next year, unless we start to glow in the dark.

Last Wednesday, we were hiking in the mountains of Blond with the above mentioned our French friend, Laure and her daughter, Claire-Andrea. They took us to many of the famous "mégalithes" scattered across the mountains.  Now when they say Mount Blond, it is more of a bump in the road than a mountain as we know them, but still there is a fabulous view from the top of Mount Blond south towards Spain.  During our first summer here, we tried to find these sites on our own, along with friends, Sharon and Dennis. That year we were only able to find one of them, which turned out to be our final stop this year. Claire-Andrea had grown up in the mountains, so she was able to navigate the back roads to all of these very interesting pre-historic sites. These monuments date back as far as the Neolithic time through the Bronze Age. Now we have the map and the brochure, we are set to be better tour guides next time.

Fred and Ginger
Steve's "chatons" are doing well.  We have named them Fred and Ginger because Ginger is a ginger and white cat. The names are gender neutral as we think Fred is female and Ginger the male. They are growing quickly and are becoming less fearful of him and of our open kitchen window. I hope they will be ready to fend for themselves by the end of September when their surrogate mother heads for home.

Nazi Occupied France
Our good friends, Linda and Andrew had good news this week, as not only have they sold their house, the woman who bought it, has sold her house in England for cash, so the deal will move ahead quickly, well as quickly as things like this move in France. Other homes in the area have been on the market for years in some cases. They are off next week to view houses in southern Spain. We may be losing some great neighbours, but we are gaining a bedroom for Spanish holidays. They have already found a replacement for their services of keeping an eye on our place when we are back home in Canada. We are having a final dinner at their house on Thursday evening. We bought a bottle of one of their favourite wines, a very big splurge for $30.00 Canadian. (we could have bought about 10 bottles of a nice wine for that price or about 22 bottles of Steve's "vin mousse". They have told us stories from the war years here in Bellac, and the French resistance which was quite strong in this area. We heard about a hotel that was taken over by the Nazis which the resistance targeted with explosives several times.  This apparently angered the Nazis and it was not uncommon for them to take out their frustrations by shooting the locals. There are also tales of secret torture rooms that the resistance used when they captured Nazis and booby trapped safes. I can see a book in my future. ( I didn't say that I was going to write it, maybe just find an interesting history to read.)

Over the summer, we have been getting more adventurous with our cheese selections. We have moved from the basic cheese section in the grocery store to la charcuterie (deli).  We are able to buy just a un peu de cela and un peu de ça just in case we run into any type of cheese we don't like, which hasn't happened yet. On a recent dinner at Laure's apartment, we had a cheese course before the dessert, and tried a few cheeses that we wouldn't have been to fearful to try on our own. It will be hard to go back home to the expensive cheeses, but there is nothing quite like a nice old cheddar.

Sangria
As Labour Day draws near, I have my last to do list written, with the most important to do item is to enjoy my remaining time in Bellac. We have a concert at the pub tonight, which will be a great evening after a morning in the garden getting it ready for winter.  We have harvested the final tomatoes that were planted for us by Robert and Tric back in May. There are still a few peppers both green and hot spicy on the vine. With the deck construction, there are a few plants along the edge of the old deck that have seen better days unfortunately. So just a friendly reminder if you were thinking of visiting the house before we arrive, the Topsfields set the bar very high for getting the garden ready this past May for our arrival.

The final few days and the week ahead have seen a return to summer weather. We, like many French without air-conditioning have closed up the shutters and are doing our best to keep the cool inside. In fact we have been inside all afternoon on this Sunday with the exception of bringing in the laundry. We are planning on still heading down the hill to the pub for a couple of cold beers as we enjoy a final Sunday afternoon concert. At least the house will be cool on our return. And yes it was. The duo that was playing at the pub was a quartet last summer. They were ok, but too many self-reflective downer type songs instead of some up beat pop. I'm sure they play for tips and drinks, so we get what we pay for. After one drink, we were ready to trek back up the hill to home, with the vision of a cool beer out on in our jardin. If I'm lucky, I will find time during a busy week to post one last time next Saturday before my train to Charles de Gaulle airport. Enjoy the last week of "summer".



















Saturday, August 12, 2017

A Holiday in a Holiday

As we wake on a cool and cloudy Saturday morning, we reflect back on our recently concluded quick get away to Paris. It was a great visit as we got a chance to see some of our favourite sites and discover some new ones. We stayed in a new neighbourhood, Place d'Italie. The Hôtel de la Place des Alpes was chosen due to its proximity to the train station, metro and bus connections, lots of good restaurants and a great price, 76.98€ or about $114.58 a night with all taxes and breakfast included. It turned out to be a new favourite hotel, especially at the price.
Steve in our hotel room.
But the price might have been due to the construction all around. Thanks to the new double glazed windows,  it would have gone un-noticed but opening the windows let in the new sounds of Paris. All over the city, streets are torn up and work is going on. Whether it is just to keep up with the aging infrastructure, or getting ready for the 2024 Olympics, it is a sign of the times in Paris.

The Petit Palais was a nice surprise, as in all of our trips, we have never been there. It is the art gallery of the collection of the the City of Paris. Not only was it a very varied collection of painting, sculpture and decorative arts, it is a beautiful building and a welcome shelter from the rain. The weather this past while has been very unsettled.
Lobby of the Petit Palais
Unlike the weather south and east of us, ours has been cool and damp. While the clouds may make look stunning in our holiday snaps, they have their way with the plans of holidayers. The showers forced us into a small Japanese restaurant for a delicious lunch before they parted just as we arrived at a hidden gem in the Marais. The sky cleared as we found Jardin de Ann Frank. Just a block away from the bustle of the Centre Pompidou, it is peaceful oasis. Located in the rear courtyard of several traditional Parisian apartment buildings, we were all but alone in the sunshine. One of the chestnut trees growing in the garden is from a graft of a tree Anne could see from her window. Our garden tour continued with the Jardin du Luxembourg. We were followed by a patch of blue sky as the rest of Paris seemed to be shrouded in black, ominous clouds. We found two of the laid back chairs and enjoyed a snack as we soaked up some of the brief sunshine that the day had to offer along with the peace and quiet that the gardens have to offer.
Jardin Luxembourg

In an example of the fact that you can never go home, we went back to a favourite restaurant we had enjoyed back in 2006.  We enjoyed several great dinners there over a week's stay in Paris with the mousse au chocolat being the pièce de résistance. Now there is no menu and dinner is only à la carte. Our waiter was not of the traditional French waiter that we had appreciated so many years ago. He was young and had an attitude. On arriving, he said to sit at any table that was set for dinner, but at the same time a regular diner was heading for his table which we had our eyes on and we were hijacked to a table which we were told we would enjoy more, that it was their best table. In retrospect it really was a great table, and it had more space than most diners in Paris are entitled to.
Le Pierrot Restaurant
It is hard to describe his manner, but in watching him interact with others, it was not reserved for the tourists. It culminated with the arrival of the bill. I pointed out that our first two glasses of wine should have been at Happy Hour prices and not the regular price of the next two. He left our table in a huff and crumpled up the original bill as he headed back to the bar. The waiter returned with the correct bill and a lukewarm apology for the mistake.
Tour Eiffel
We followed the meal with a wander down to the Tour de Eiffel to watch the light show that it is now so famous for. It reminded us that some of the best things in Paris never change.

Our culinary tour of Paris included quiche, croque monsieur, pizza, pasta, saucisse de Lyon, Japonaise, traditional French sandwiches and even KFC. It came after enjoying our first Happy few Hours at a sidewalk cafe near our hotel. Like they say, same same but different. Even KFC tastes different in Paris.....

Home now and we returned to see the framing of our new deck finished. We were even visited by the contractor on Friday evening shortly after we arrived to see if the few little changes he had to make met our approval. We had talked about an extra step down as we raced towards home on the train and found out it was such a good idea, Alan had the same great idea and we arrived finding the extra set of steps. He will finish the job when he arrives back from Switzerland doing a job for Apple as he is one of their contractors for new stores. Also, the lumber yard which specializes in long boards of douglas fir will be open by then.

We have a dinner this evening with Steve's friend, Laure and her daughter. Tonight it is her turn to cook. Next week we have booked a rental car for some local days out. With only 3 weeks left for me before I fly home, we still have a lot of French living to stuff in. Steve will be here for the month of September on his own. It will give him a chance to get started on painting the kitchen and maybe even on some canvas for his own enjoyment.

A mural in our neighbourhood.

Arc de Triumphe



D'Orsay Museum

More murals

Jardin Luxembourg





Jardin de Anne Frank

Jardin de Anne Frnak