Notre Petite Escapade

Well we have returned to Bellac after a four day escapade away. Last Friday we drove up to Chartres not only to visit the cathedral, but to meet up with our friends, Sharon and Dennis. After rolling through the bus lanes at the train station to pick them up, we were off. Its great to travel and even better meeting up with friends to share the adventure. Sharon wanted to walk the labyrinth in the Chartres Cathedral, so that was our goal. In dealing with old buildings such as the cathedral, you always run the chance that they will be under repair, just like the leaky condos back home. Well that was the case for the cathedral. They were nearing the end of a lengthy cleaning and repairing of the stain glass, the walls and the ceilings. This meant the the floor of the nave where the labyrinth is embedded was covered to protect it from the construction. If you are interested in the labyrinth, I have provided a link and a picture.

Chartres Cathedral Labyrinth 

Chartres Labyrinth

After visiting the cathedral, we wandered around the charming town before heading back to our hotel located on the motorway on the outskirts of town. We were lucky there was a seafood chain restaurant right next door, so we enjoyed a lovely dinner with more mussels in one plate than I have ever seen. After a quiet night, we were up and out the next morning heading to the Brittany/Normandy coast for our next adventure at Mt. St. Michel.

I had seen pictures of the abbey on the island mountain, but never really knew much about it. ( as I am writing, the bread truck has honked, and is seeking bread and croissants along our street, just another cute aspect of our village). Getting back to Mt. St. Michel, there are a few hotels on the actual "island" but most of us tourists stay on the mainland. Our Le Pommeray hotel was about 10 km from the parking lot/shuttle station. After parking, you board a shuttle bus to take you across the causeway to the island. If you can time your visits right, you can witness the fastest and largest tide range in Europe. Occasionally on very high tides, the island is totally cut off from the mainland. 

Mt. St. Michel at high tide (not when we visited)

Once on the island, you walk up through the village to the abbey which is precariously perched on the top of the island,  almost defying gravity. It is a testimony to Medieval architecture. The village consists of restaurants, souvenir shops and private museums. The tour takes you right to the top of the abbey, and then you decend down through the magnificent structure. Some of the highlights were the west terrace with incredible views of the coast line and the English Channel, the cloisters, the Visitors' Hall and the Knights' Hall. The large feather sculpture in the Monks' Refectory added a lightness to the hard stone and wood room. It was a mystic place, a cross between an amusement park, and a church.

Feather Sculpture in the Monks' Refectory 

Souviens-Toi, Remember

Today is the change-over day. Our first set of friends, Maureen and Irene, have come and gone to their river cruise, and now we prepare for a weekend away.  Tomorrow, Friday, we meet up with Sharon and Dennis in Chartes to see the cathedral. Then from there we travel to Mont St. Michel and return to Bellac on Monday.

Over the  past few days with Maureen and Irene, we toured our village and then took a day trip out to the Loire Valley to see the Château de Chenonceau. The château dates back to the 1500's, and was the home of Henri III and his wife Catherine de Médicis. It stretches romantically across the River Cher and is considered by many the loveliest of the Loire châteaux. It is surrounded by formal gardens and wooded grounds, this pure Renaissance building was transformed over the centuries from a modest manor into a palace designed solely for pleasure.

Château de Chenonceau

The self-guided tours allows you entry to many of the rooms including the kitchens and the bedrooms. The Grande Galerie, is the ball room that crosses the river, which started its life as a bridge from the original château to the opposite bank of the river and Catherine de Médicis transformed the bridge to this elegant gallery. One of the outbuildings was transformed into a self-service restaurant for a nice late lunch after the tour. The Château also has its own vineyards, wine, farm, maze and donkeys. We had taken the minor roads through the French countryside on the way to the château, but after the tour, we decided to pick the fastest route home from the GPS. The tolls were worth the 130km/hr speed and quick arrival back home. We did stumble upon a Bastille Day celebration in the small village of Bonnes on our drive up to the Loire Valley. We pulled into town to find their public W/C, and found ourselves in the middle of the band warming up. The one remaining parking spot in the community centre was front and centre. We all piled out of the car, past the band and the villagers waiting for the festivities to start and into the W/C seeking relief. After washing our hands, we were back into the car leaving the villagers to their celebrations.

We were treated to an amazing display of fire works on Bastille Day eve. The fireworks were set off from the park just below us. We had the best view in the village as they exploded just at our eye level. No straining our necks to look way up. Almost 30 minutes of Oohs and Awes! A great way to kick off Bastille Day.

After touring the decadent château, we changed gears yesterday to visit the village of Oradour-sur-Glane. Life for the village ended on Saturday, June 10, 1944 when the  soldiers of the Der Führer Regiment of the 2nd Waffen-SS Panzer Division Das Reich, without giving any explanation, killed a total of 642 men, women and children, leaving only a few survivors. They then destroyed the entire village and to this day there is no universally accepted explanation for the massacre. General de Gaulle wanted to preserve the ruins of Oradour, in order to bear witness for the rest of mankind to the consequences of the barbarity of war. It was an eerie feeling walking along the streets with only shells of the buildings and lives left behind after the massacre.

Oradour-sur-Glane

In the memorial, they have on display personal items of the villagers. The most moving were the watches which had the time between 4 and 5 that afternoon when they believed the men were executed. Scattered through the rubble of death were metal items, cars, and sewing machines. Little else survived the fire. We had arrived late in the afternoon, and as we were finishing our tour, we were the last ones left in the village, which intensified the eerie feeling and sense of disbelief that horrors like this can happen. I am sure this is not the only village in Europe that was destroyed by the war, but it was had no military value, and was not a threat to the Germans at the time. It felt strange to leave the village, and head back to life in Bellac for our last meal together at our local pub/cafe.

The lamb burger was even better than the beef burger I had last time, while Steve's pork burger was improved with the caramelized onions which they ran out of last time we were there. Maureen and Irene also enjoyed their lamb burgers. Not very French, but delicious none the less especially since it is all made at the right there in their kitchens. And where else can you enjoy a meal on the banks of a river, looking up at a 13th century church on a hot summer evening.

This morning we were up early for a train station run, and now back home to do laundry and catch up on our pictures and this blog. It is too quiet around here now......but very hot.

Château du Chenonceau

Oradour-sur-Glane

Oradour-sur-Glane

derniers jours de solitude

It is a lovely sunny Sunday morning here in Bellac. The radio has some classical music on, the gentle breeze, while not whispering Louise, is keeping the house cool. It is now the end of our week of solitude. Friends start arriving today, and will keep us company now right through to near the end of August. Over the past few days, we have refined the art of relaxing. We took another hike on Friday starting in a cute village, St. Junien Les Combes. This hike/walk took us through farms and some woodlands. We had a nice break next to un étang, (a pond).

Our étang

Near the end of the hike we passed a château. Not as grand as the ones in the Loire Valley, but a château none the less. The day ended with a delicious dinner sur le patio. We started our shopping trip to the supermarket with one thing in mind, and as we checked out the various departments, dinner plans evolved into something totally different than originally  planned as we discovered new and interesting foods up and down each aisle. We spent more time putting things back. We feasted on pasta with a oil/garlic/pesto sauce and muscles. It was great with the white wine and the view.

Saturday was a day spent here in the village because we had seen signs talking about a spectacle. Well it was not as spectacular as we thought. The international Festival was in its last day, so there were some free performances around the village. We sat in the park by the river watching a crew set up for the evening's performance by a traveling show. It was a nice relaxing day peppered with a few walks around the village, and some reading time on the patio. The park down by the river is a nice shady place to sit or lay out on the grass. The day ended with dinner in the Café le Pont de la Pierre. It is a five minute stroll away, and it is right on the river. Under new ownership, they have a limited menu, 5 different hamburgers and lasagna. I had the Limousin Beef burger while Steve had a pork burger. Both were excellent and we will be going back again. After dinner we made another circuit of the river park, catching a glimpse of the theatre production that we saw being set up.

Theatre in the Park

The full crowd seemed to be enjoying themselves, though we couldn't understand what was going on. It was the end of another great day.

This morning I spent blogging while Steve went off exploring more. He came back empty handed as his favourite boulangerie was closed and the other boulangerie was lined up out the door. He will have to find a new dealer for his new found habit.

Don't forget to check out the updated pictures at our Paris picture file

After a great meal.

Je suis malade.

It was Thursday morning here in France when I started this entry. Great friends, Sharon and Dennis were just 4 hours or so away from Paris. (They have since landed and are enjoying Paris.) We meet up with them next week for a weekend away in Chartes and Mont Saint Michel. Before that I have two friends from work visiting starting on Sunday. Before any of these visits, I need to get over this stomach bug I have caught.  It's not to serious, but just enough to be
to be uncomfortable and .....

Wednesday

Limoges

we ventured into Limoges to check it out before we do a train station pick-up on Sunday. We thought it would be a quick and easy drive. We discovered that Limoges is bigger than we had thought, and missing one sign can change the whole drive. We eventually found the train station to find that we had no change for the parking. In an attempt to find free parking, we drove around the city, and across La Vienne River. Not only did we find a parking space just up from the river, we discovered the Pont Saint-Etiene. Built in the 13th century, it is one of the best preserved in France. Across the bridge is the Medieval section of the city, with the Cathedral Saint Etienne (St. Steven). The construction of the Gothic cathedral began in 1273 and finally finished in 1888 when the nave and the bellower were connected. The central core of the city is near, with many narrow and winding medieval streets now turned into a shopping area. There are many ceramic stores selling the famous Limoges pottery.

As I continue this on Friday morning, where does the time go. We made it out for our second hike yesterday. This time we were equipped with the local hiking map downloaded on our phone, so we did know where we were and where we were going. We have found evidence of some wild creatures on the trails other than horses, we are sure it isn't bears, but we will have to get the app for that some time.... The country side here is rolling hills, fields, and farms will little clusters of homes scattered about.

A beautiful farm house.

We did walk up into the village yesterday afternoon, only to find our supply of croissants sold out... need to get there earlier... there is always tomorrow...

In case you were worried, my stomach issues seem to be on the mend. I am feeling better, but will continue to be careful of what I eat....

With two days left before we start entertaining visitors, we plan a hike around a pretty village we discovered yesterday, a quick dip in the local pool (the temperature is on the rise again for the weekend), some grocery shopping, a trip to the local pub for a burger and a beer (it is Friday after all) and one last concert which is part of the Festival here in Bellac. So a busy couple of days, but I'm sure we will find time to kick back and relax and do nothing, which we do so well.

À bientôt.

Check link below for all photos

Paris2015

Me on the Pont Saint-Etiene

Medieval Street in Limoges

Au jour le jour vive

As we try to beat the heat here on a Monday afternoon, we are listening to CBC 1 Vancouver and hear all about the fires and the smoke in Metro Vancouver. We hope the weather there changes soon, to blow the smoke away. Here, it is hot today, but we have had a few thunder storms over the past few days to keep it cool. Last night it was downright cool. Today we headed out on a hike across some of the hills and valleys of the area. We did this without any idea where we were headed. The countryside is more a farming area than the vineyards of Provence. We past cattle, sheep, goats and horses on our wander. After getting home, we discovered the web site which had maps and details of the hikes. If only we had continued just a bit further, the trail we were on would have turned left and headed back to town, but we didn't know at the time. All was well and we enjoyed our first day out. On return we laid out on the lawn down by the river by the pub (only about 2 minute walk away). Even better back at home where we discovered the lawn chairs and our lower deck. We had lunch outdoors and then a nap in the new lawn chairs. We are quickly learning how to do nothing and do it with style, not that reading is really doing nothing. Looking forward to sharing out beautiful house and village with visitors that start rolling in next weekend. Even our quick run to grocery store took a different route just to learn more about the village. After 3 daily trips to the Carrefour, we are beginning to stock up our pantry. Now that Tuesday is coming, and the village opens up, we hope to use some of the local shops instead of the large grocery store. It is just a nice quiet, slow pace to life here, that you can't help relax. Even when a bus dropping off some special needs adults at the pub was blocking traffic in both directions, we all just waited until they were unloaded and the bus left. No horns or angry words were shared. 

On our hike. The River Vincou

Our lower patio...

To bad the kitchen is one floor up...

Our  big choices are where to walk, when to eat, and red, white or rosé, or beer...... 

As of Tuesday morning we had finally discovered the church that is the major part of our view and the soundscape of the village. The 12th - 15th century church dominates the village. It began its life as Romanesque, but as construction continued through the centuries, it took on the Gothic architecture of the time. It is not a pretty church, but impressive all the same. It houses a treasure chest adored with jewels from the beginnings of the Limoges decorative arts period. The chest is the oldest testimony of the craftsmanship of the Limousin goldsmith enamelers.  It is a copper-gilded-enamelled chest of the 12th century. It is adorned with semi-precious stones and with 14 medallions of inlaid enamel representing Jesus and the four evangelists. The older homes near the church date back to the 15th to17th century. There are parts of the defensive wall still to see, and the city hall also dates back to the 17th century, with two small towers on its corners. 

We also discovered the local train station, the swimming pool complete with water slides, (can't wait to take a dip) and Steve's new favourite patisserie et boulangerie. Since the village in on a hillside, and we are on the opposite hill side, we walk down to the river and then back up to the village. There is on path called the 105 steps, so it is a good way to work off the breads and croissants and wine......

So we are working into the slow paced life of nothing to do...just like we planned. Tomorrow we will get energetic and drive into Limoges to scout it out before we need to meet Maureen and Irene on Sunday midday, as they arrive for a short visit before they take a river cruise. Also we need to take back a toaster to the Carrefour as we found one in the cupboard just before I was about to put in some toast for breakfast. This should be a good use of my French as we try to explain why we need to bring it back. Wish us bonne chance, if not anyone wanting to buy a grille-pain, never been used... only 15€. On the other hand it might come in handy when the population of this house goes from 2 to 11 or even 12 later in August. 

Well now back to.......without even feeling guilty.

Paradise.... (Coldplay was just on the radio)

Not to go on too much, but it is hot here. The heat has slowed us down and limited our excursions around Paris. I started this blog on Saturday morning while we were cleaning up the apartment and waiting the arrival of the caretaker to return the keys. Even in our court yard, there was no breeze and it must be in the mid 20s°. Our day will be to cross town on the metro, and then pick up our rental car and drive to Bellac. 

While the Friday wasn't busy, with some wandering around the Marais, Les Halles and Le Bastille, we did have two great meals. Lunch was at a small sidewalk café in the Marais. Le Voltigeur was quiet and cool and just what we needed. The quiche and Croque Monsieur were served with salad and a cold vegetable soup. Later we discovered that it was a highly rated restaurant on Trip Advisor. Our last night in Paris, we found another nice café/restaurant for dinner right in our neighbourhood. The waiter was a bit of a jokester, but it made for a fun evening. We both found local "craft" beers after we started with a refreshing cider. La Goudale and Saint Omer were very nice. We went back to the apartment to finish our wine and try to get some sleep. It was actually cooler inside than in the court yard.

Travel days can always bee a bit hairy as you try to navigate unfamiliar ground with your luggage in tow. Of course Saturday was no different. The metro to the car rental location was crowded until after passing through the heart of Paris, then as the tourists and residents dispersed, we had room to sit down. On arriving at Place d'Italie the Europar location was right there. Things seem to be going our way. After a discussion about insurance, that dreaded car rental discussion..., our upgraded car was waiting for us right out front of the office. The only problem was it was facing the wrong way.  Our first adventure was to get into the Place d'italie traffic circle and go once around to get on to Avenue d'italie to head south out of Paris. Unlike the Griswold's Traffic Circle Adventure, we made it out the first time around. 

The drive down from Paris was relatively uneventful. Steve drove well and I think my navigation skills were great, but signs on the freeways were sometimes hard to comprehend. Roads will have many different numbers and a list of cities in that direction.  A10, N17, E5 D2020, and you mainly just pick a city on your way, and follow the signs. We were on a toll road for about €15.80 (we had no idea how much the toll was until you put in your ticket as you leave the toll road) and decided to get off and enjoy the backroads. Our car is a Volkswagon Golf, a free upgrade from our original booking and it came with a navigation system too which we didn’t expect, and it was able to get us to 2 houses away from our final destination. Not sure why number 8 was not in the system, but number 12 was.  The drive down was uneventful except for torrential down pours from passing thunder storms, nice that everyone puts on their hazards to warn everyone to slow down, even the oncoming traffic flashed lights to warn you.  The great roads rocked Steve to sleep and we pulled over in a few of the aires (rest stops) and once he even needed a short cat nap. But all ended well, as we found the local grocery store to stock up for at least Saturday night and Sunday morning, called Gary and met him at the house and what a house it is. 

Alors, as I sit here, the bells of the church are ringing out, it is just past 7:00 am on Sunday morning. There is a breeze blowing through the house in it is a bit cool. It looks like a lovely village and can’t wait to get out to explore today. We need to get back to the grocery store before noon when it closes on a Sunday. Our view is priceless and it will be a treat to wake up and enjoy our coffee, baguettes and croissants to this view for the next two months. 

We are currently working on a photo sharing web site with this link:Our France Photos. Don't mind the duplicates, we are working on that problem.

Enjoy

Its going to be hot again today......

Journaling in Jardin du Ranelagh

Il est vendredi, le 3 juillet à 6 heures du matin. With the front door open we get a breeze to cool us down from another hot night. We had a nice break from the heat yesterday and took advantage of the slightly cooler temperatures. The day still included many breaks in the shade and plenty of fluids. In our attempt to stay off the beaten track, we visited Musée Marmottan-Monet. It has the largest collection of Monet in the world. The Jardin du Ranelagh  across the street provided  a shady place to relax before and after an enjoyable stroll through the gallery. The collection of large Monet paintings of Giverny gardens were wonderful. It was nice to beat the madding crowds of the Louvre or the d'Orsay, but of course you need to be a Monet fan to truly enjoy the gallery. From here is is a short stroll down the the Trocadero and the view of the Tour Eiffel provided a magnificent backdrop to a lunch in the park. We spent the time people watching. It is amazing to watch people from all over the world stroll by, and how we are all more alike than different. After enjoying the ambiance of our surroundings, we thought we needed to head off and discover more of the Paris off the beaten track. According to those who know, Belville is an up and coming neighbourhood. Right now, it is the Chinatown of Paris. Interspersed is a graffiti chic young atmosphere.

rue Dénoyez

I'm not sure what we were looking for, but it wasn't this and the heat didn't help. The only places to sit and soak up the atmosphere are cafés or bars, and it was too hot for a coffee, so we headed up to see our last new park, the Parc des Buttes Chaumont. This park was noted for its views of the city. Well to get a view you need to walk up, way up, and once you get the top of the first butte, you need to walk down and then up the second butte. Not wanting to repeat the heat stroke like episodes of the previous day, we found a shady slope and had a quick nap before heading home. The slow and steady pace has kept us out until almost 5. Passing by a few elementary schools, it seemed that the students were being dismissed for the summer. They were loaded down with all their supplies and enough energy for the summer. I couldn't imagine trying to teach in this type of heat.

Two nights in a row we ate
at the same restaurant, so last night we were going to be adventurous and try something new. We found a small sidewalk restaurant that was spreading up and down the street infront of vacant stores, and stretched even further as the store next door closed. The sidewalk tables are the place to be for Parisians. Not to be seen or to see, but to smoke and they are all young. It feels like we have taken up second hand smoking. The draw was happy hour with half-priced beer, €3.50, a little less than $5.00 pints, but the carbonara and the pizza were good too. As the heat takes its toll, we headed back to try to cool down before heading to bed.

Did we say that it is a little warm here?

Today is our last day here in Paris before picking up the rental car and heading south to Bellac. We are wearing as little as possible enjoying our coffee, croissants, pain au chocolate and the cool breeze through the open front door.  Pride be damned when you are this hot.